Кращі подкасти про Climbing Training (2024)

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#105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends 15:31

3d ago15:31

15:31

This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when. 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visi…

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#104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids 14:44

10d ago14:44

14:44

In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing! There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever! This episode features an in…

1
#103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years 19:36

16d ago19:36

19:36

This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes. The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years. Upcoming Flash Episo…

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#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal! 1:29:58

1M ago1:29:58

1:29:58

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13.…

1
#101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine 1:04:14

2M ago1:04:14

1:04:14

Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert g…

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#100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder! 1:04:55

3M ago1:04:55

1:04:55

To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be! No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you w…

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#99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! 56:24

4M ago56:24

56:24

When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best! However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gy…

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#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 35:01

5M ago35:01

35:01

In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route cl…

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#97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance 37:38

6M ago37:38

37:38

The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock …

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#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) 1:20:45

8M ago1:20:45

1:20:45

Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an…

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#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 43:45

9M ago43:45

43:45

Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and …

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#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 50:28

10M ago50:28

50:28

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his…

1
#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers 43:57

11M ago43:57

43:57

In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the s…

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#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium 38:25

12M ago38:25

38:25

In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the …

1
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! 58:28

1y ago58:28

58:28

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is a…

1
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! 24:57

1y ago24:57

24:57

For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November. Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND! RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season…

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TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups 1:24:32

1y ago1:24:32

1:24:32

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re actually an athlete in that sport, you can turn those viewings into active learning sessions by askin…

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TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance 1:25:16

1y ago1:25:16

1:25:16

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the link below: Listen to my first interview with Thomas In that episode, we started talking about how…

1
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip 32:21

1y ago32:21

32:21

For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one o…

1
#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) 29:30

1+ y ago29:30

29:30

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety sys…

1
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster 1:12:23

1+ y ago1:12:23

1:12:23

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way. He’s found that he’s…

1
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt 1:39:06

1+ y ago1:39:06

1:39:06

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power. Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to sim…

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#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) 33:22

1+ y ago33:22

33:22

Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c. The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst. Despite beginning the Spring 2…

1
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing 1:18:59

1+ y ago1:18:59

1:18:59

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing drills, strength training tactics, and mindset shifts to help you feel less intimidated and more confident on…

1
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3 1:25:59

1+ y ago1:25:59

1:25:59

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer." Turns out this was his second--not first--14c, which I found out…

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#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin 1:18:25

1+ y ago1:18:25

1:18:25

What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end. In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first w…

1
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins 1:10:42

1+ y ago1:10:42

1:10:42

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to having twins and balancing her life with her two children as a new part of it. The book is a compilation of letters she wrote to her kids through the f…

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TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger 1:31:15

1+ y ago1:31:15

1:31:15

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom calls starting March 21st all about how to use efficient, quick sessions in the gym to reliably make you feel stronger and have more endurance. The cost…

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TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus 1:36:05

1+ y ago1:36:05

1:36:05

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Through the training and tactics they employed, she was able to…

1
#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? 21:58

1+ y ago21:58

21:58

It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-pac…

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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn

1
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric J. Hörst

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#105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends 15:31

1
#104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids 14:44

1
#103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years 19:36

1
#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal! 1:29:58

1
#101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine 1:04:14

1
#100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder! 1:04:55

1
#99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! 56:24

1
#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 35:01

1
#97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance 37:38

1
#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!) 1:20:45

1
#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 43:45

1
#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3 50:28

1
#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers 43:57

1
#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium 38:25

1
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project! 58:28

1
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best! 24:57

1
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups 1:24:32

1
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance 1:25:16

1
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip 32:21

1
#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each) 29:30

1
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster 1:12:23

1
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt 1:39:06

1
#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?) 33:22

1
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing 1:18:59

1
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3 1:25:59

1
#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin 1:18:25

1
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins 1:10:42

1
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger 1:31:15

1
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus 1:36:05

1
#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing? 21:58

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