WARDROBE CRISIS With Clare Press podcast

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13:44

Legendary actor and mental health advocate Glenn Close is on a quest to change how we think about mental health, starting with her decision to speak out about her own family's struggles — a brave choice considering the stigma that pervades the topic. This week, we're revisiting this sweeping conversation with TEDWomen curator Pat Mitchell, where Close shares the inspiration behind the advocacy group she founded to combat the crisis, underscoring the transformative power of community and the critical need for comprehensive mental health care systems. Want to help shape TED’s shows going forward? Fill out our survey ! Become a TED Member today at https://ted.com/join Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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WARDROBE CRISIS is a fashion podcast about sustainability, ethical fashion and making a difference in the world. Your host is author and journalist Clare Press, who was the first ever Vogue sustainability editor. Each week, we bring you insightful interviews from the global fashion change makers, industry insiders, activists, artists, designers and scientists who are shaping fashion's future.

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WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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updated 9 днів тому

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WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

1
Waste Not, Want Not - Mungo, Shoddy, the History, Process and Modern Times of Mechanical Wool Recycling 30:43

9 днів тому30:43

30:43

Ever wondered how mechanical textile recycling actually works? What shoddy and mungo is, and why we called it that? What the rag n' bone man collected back in the day and how the trade grew up, then scaled back? And what it will take to bring it back and keep what's already here, going? Wonder no more! John Parkinson has a masterclass for you, complete with magic and secrets. For 200 years, Yorkshire made recycled wool cloth for the world. But don’t think its all disappeared. John’s mill in Huddersfield is aptly called iinouiio - an acronym for It Is Never Over Until It Is Over. With centuries of accumulated of skill and knowledge, they’re doing what they always did, only better. Find all the links & further reading at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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A Love Letter to Local Textiles Skills, with Julia Roebuck 47:46

16 днів тому47:46

47:46

What if the best place was the one you're already in? Meet Julia Roebuck , the powerhouse organiser behind Thread Republic Textile Reuse Hub and social enterprise in Huddersfield, UK. We're talking about textile skills, mending, repair, sewing, the wellbeing economy and what that might look like - at home. What fashion can be when we remove the transactional, when it's not just about shopping. And the immense satisfaction to be gotten from making something with your hands that you’re proud. Discover Thread Republic here: threadrepublic.co.uk Find all the links & further reading at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Clare's Take: 5 Lessons from Australia's First Big Sustainable Fashion Conference 40:32

23 дні тому40:32

40:32

How do you feel about competition? Do you think it’s healthy? Natural? Are you that person who has to win at Scrabble or tennis or the pub quiz? Or maybe you've read your Gaia theory and are hooked on the idea of a harmonious, post-patriarchal ecosystem that's all about balance and working together. Many of us have come around to thinking that, at least when it comes to sustainability, it's being hyper-competitive that got into this mess. So you might be surprised to learn that competitive sustainability is the latest thing... we were! This week on the pod, find out what else we gleaned from Australia’s first big sustainable fashion conference. Featuring: New Era Bio, Alt Leather, Wildlife Drones and more. Thank you to the Growth Activists for making this episode possible. Find all the links & further reading at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Human Rights and the True Cost of Fashion - it's time to get real on this persistent issue 50:43

30 днів тому50:43

50:43

Want a side of modern slavery with that? Didn't think so. Modern slavery is organised crime, and no one wants that lurking in their supply chain. Yet fashion and textiles are key industries implicated in this travesty that traps an estimated 50 million people worldwide in forced labour, debt bondage and human trafficking. Twelve per cent of those in forced labour are children, while women and girls are disproportionately affected. And the problem is growing, despite many countries introducing legislation to ensure large companies are taking steps to ensure their supply chains are slavery-free. All this is intrinsically linked to low wages and wage insecurity. As Outland Denim's James Bartle points out: "It isn't possible to make a pair pf jeans for $20, and pay people a living wage." So, where are we at with legislation and reporting on modern slavery today? What steps can brands be taking now to ensure exploitation is part of story of their products. Why do we still have so few brands paying living wages in 2025? And finally: is it time we built the true cost of a product into its final price? Recorded live at the Good For Business Sustainable Fashion Summit in Sydney. With thanks to The Growth Activists , Australia's leading B Corp consultancy, and speakers: Dr Nga Pham , senior Research Fellow, Monash Centre for Financial Studies Fraser Tier, Group Commercial Manager, Active Apparel Group James Bartle - CEO & Founder, Outland Denim Sarah Rogan - Oxfam Australia's Economic Justice & Strategic Lead Find all the links & further reading at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Fab Scraps, Clever Pattern Cutting and Why Apparel Factories Need Design Thinkers, with Industrial Upcycler Agustina Comas 39:43

5 weeks тому39:43

39:43

Continuing our theme of fashion's crazily wasteful ways, and our focus on Latin America, this week, more Brazilian goodness, as Clare sits down with São Paolo-based industrial upcycler Agustina Comas. We're talking fast fashion, big business, athleisure's reliance on synthetics and rethinking pattern-cutting. BTW: how much do you know about pattern-cutting? If you've ever done this yourself at home with paper dressmaking patterns, you'll know that you pin these onto the fabric and cut around them. Sometimes using tailor's chalk to add markings. It's often trickier than it should be! The scraps - or offcuts - are the wastage round the edges. And they can pile up. On an industrial level, technicians also use paper markers. Multiple layers of fabrics are laid on the table, and many garments are being cut at a time, often using computer-controlled machines. Of course brands try to make the most of fabric yields, even if only to save money, so if multiple styles use the same fabric, you might see these placed intricately on the marker to form a complex jigsaw puzzle. At the end of the day, they still sweep the offcuts into the bin. Who cares? It's just scraps. In some cases, these scraps account for 35% of the fabric. Instant waste! Mad! Making new stuff out of wasted old stuff is a noble idea. But wouldn't it be better if we used less in the first place? Agustina's got a plan for that. Also up for discussion - Brazil's mighty craft heritage, and how women are leading the way; Shein's designs on the country (and everywhere else); and which South American designers are pushing innovation. Find all the links & further reading at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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"Don't buy, rescue!" Fixing the Trash Pile of Clothes in Chile's Atacama Desert 53:28

7 weeks тому53:28

53:28

Hello! What are we actually doing? Our unwanted clothes don't belong dumped in Chile's beautiful Atacama Desert... Everyone knows reasons why the global north exports used clothing to the global south - it's because fashion is too fast, quality is too low, volumes are too high, and for rich countries it's often cheaper to export your problem than it is to deal with it onshore. But even if that wasn't the case, even if you had a big dream and deep pockets, that horse has bolted - the system at scale today is about global trade. Certainly, some of it is a reuse stream, some of it does get re-worn and recycled. Also sorted, processed and re-exported. But the fact is, too many of of these clothes become unsustainable waste that, once they reach their final destination, escape into the environment and pollute Nature and communities. According to the UN, about 40% of the clothes imported through Chile's Iquique free trade zone in the northern Atacama, have no value in the local second-hand clothing market and cannot be re-exported. Many end up dumped in the desert. In our annual Fashion Revolution ep, we meet the activists and creatives behind a genius campaign - Recommerce Atacama . Bastian Barria and Angela Astudillo from Desierto Vestido have joined forces with creative agency Art Plan, ecommerce platform Vtex, and Fashion Revolution Brazil to sell these clothes back to where they come from. The price? Zero dollars. The slogan: "Don't buy, rescue!" Clare sits down with Fernanda Simon and Paula Lagrotta to unpack the issues. More info at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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"23 billion pairs of shoes every year and we're throwing out 22 billion!" - Chandni Batra on What the Sneaker Giants Don't Tell You 1:05:38

8 weeks тому1:05:38

1:05:38

Twenty-two billion! What are we playing at?! Things get worse when we look at the materials most commonly in use. The sports shoe category in particular is a giant, influential sector, yet its waste footprint and chemical inputs tend to fall under the radar. And don't get us started on the Crocsification of everything! Injection-moulded EVA is coming to a clog near you, but don't let's pretend that's sustainable. Increasingly, our shoes are made of frankenstein plastics, and even their creators don't necessarily know what's in them. This week on the podcast, Clare's guest is Chandni Batra , founder of A BLUNT STORY - a disruptive Indian sandals brand on a mission detoxify your footwear, and challenge the industry to stop trashing the planet. This is a gob-smacking conversation full of revelations about how huge numbers of shoes are made today, using oil-based plastics, potentially-toxic foams and petrochemical ingredients for all sorts of uses you’ve most likely never even heard of. Could these chemicals be leaching into our skin? What are their effects on the environment? And on the workers who must handle them? Why are modern shoes to hard to recycle? And what can be done about all this. Chandni has solutions! Ears here! More info at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Everything's Better When the Sustainability Team is in Charge - the Inspiring Tale of Lafaani 38:20

9 weeks тому38:20

38:20

In the third of our four-part mini series on sustainable fashion in India, Clare sits down with Drishti Modi and Rashmick Bose, the duo behind slow fashion brand Lafaani. It's focused handcraft, handloom weaves, and natural dyes, and their clothes are gorgeous - we want them all! But the founders didn't always dream of fashion careers - they're sustainability professionals who met at university studying environmental resource management. At first, it was all about biodiversity, water use in marginalised communities, and regen ag. So how does one move from observing flying lizards in the Western Ghats, or surveying toilet numbers in remote villages, to staging runway shows? And making wonderful trench coats dyed with marigolds diverted from temple waste-streams. Somewhat of a winding road, it has to be said! Was it hard? What drives them? When you haven't been to fashion school, how do you get the design right? Who do you work with? How do you figure it all out, while staying true to your purpose? A warm, inviting conversation that will help anybody with big sustainability ideas trying to do fashion differently. More info at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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From Vintage Seller to Artisanal Manufacturer: Is Ritwik Khanna India's Most Promising New Designer? 39:17

10 weeks тому39:17

39:17

More from our visit to India! If you listened to the last episode with stylist Daniel Franklin, you'll have heard Clare promise more to come from India's burgeoning sustainable fashion scene. This week's chat is with one of Delhi's most promising young designers , who's just shown his collection at Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai, and who won last year's Circular Design Challenge (run by R/Elan and UN India). He is Ritwik Khanna, founder of the edgy menswear offering and atelier RKive City. He's created a new system of working with post-consumer textile waste (lots of denim and camouflage gear) that he de-constructs, then recuts into brilliant new garments, often embellished with embroideries. The result blends cool modernity with high craft. What's up for discussion? His process, obviously, but this is also a conversation about dignified work, what people don't realise about the second-hand and waste textile supply chain in India, and ultimately - what makes a good life. Fancy your chances winning the Circular Design Challenge? Applications for 2025 close May 8th. Info here. More info at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Lakmé Fashion Week Special: Styling India's New Wave Designers, with Daniel Franklin 45:02

12 weeks тому45:02

45:02

Mumbai and New Delhi take turns to host Lakmé Fashion Week, and this season it's the former that will be exploding with creative runways and high-craft fever, starting next week. To get you in the mood, we're bringing you an Indian mini-series of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast, starting with this delightful conversation with stylist Daniel Franklin. Daniel styled five shows last season, and has seven on the go this time, and we can't think of anyone better to contextualise India's new gen talent explosion. So yes, expect to learn the new names-to-know and what makes them tick. But Daniel studied fashion history before breaking into magazines, and this is a far-ranging discussion that gallops through the myth of the Silk Route to the truth of the colonial hangover, via a tour of India's unparalleled craft heritage. Enjoy! More info at thewardrobecrisis.com Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Woke! Anti-Woke! What's with all the Corporates Ditching DEI? 1:00:38

13 weeks тому1:00:38

1:00:38

A disturbing shift away from diversity, equity and inclusion is spreading through the corporate world. Following US President Donald Trump's lead, some of the world's most powerful companies have rushed to dismantle years of positive work that's been done in this area. Race and gender are central to this discussion, but diversity and inclusion programs concern the whole gamut of non-majority groups in any given setting, including sexual orientation, disability and class. So what does mean to be abandoning policies and initiatives designed to make our societies, organisations and businesses fairer and more equitable for everyone ? To remove unjust barriers to entry that have, for too long, locked less-privileged groups out? It’s not like, our work is done here. Take, for example, the continued lack of representation of women in the C-suite. The numbers simply don’t represent broader society - or brands’ stakeholders and customer-bases. Or educational establishments that blatantly favour upper class students from rich families. That’s where affirmative action comes in. Talking about merit-based hires and some lofty ideal of a colour/class/gender/disability-blind world is pure nonsense when some of us clearly get a head start over others. Big questions: what's driving brands to drop DEI programs? Did they ever really care in the first place? How do the culture wars play into all of this? Will what's happening in America spread to other countries? And will more big brands follow suit? Is diversity and inclusion officially dead - or just on life support? Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. In this episode, Clare gives you a masterclass on the history, context and current state of play , then revisits key messages from previous episodes on this topic, including insights from Aja Barber, Lou Croff Blake, Rahemur Rahman and Junior Bishop. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Oh Hey Ripu Daman Bevli... Meet The Plogman of India 40:37

14 weeks тому40:37

40:37

It's time for some more trashtalk, my friends. Remember plastic pollution ? Of course you do - because it's still with us. According to the UNEP, the equivalent of 2,000 garbage trucks full of plastic enter the world's oceans, rivers and lakes EVERY SINGLE DAY. And while there was a great deal of excitement around the prospect of a Global Plastics Treaty last year, talks were suspended at the end of 2024 when UN member states failed to reach an agreement on what would have been the first-ever global legally binding instrument to end plastic pollution. But it's not just plastic that's littering the environment. You name it; it ends up there - from paper and cardboard to aluminium cans, glass, clothing and fly-tipped furniture. We're all complicit, so we've all got a part to play. The good news is that awareness and community action is growing, and that is the focus of today's interview with the inspiring Ripu Daman Bevli - a Delhi-based environmentalist and runner, on a mission to make picking up litter cool. Meet the Plogman of India... Plog- what?! The term plogging originated in Sweden - it's a portmanteau of the Swedish verb, "plocka upp" (to pick up) and the English word "jogging". In 2019, Ripu ran 1000 km across 50 cities in India, picking up trash - and followers - along the way. As he says, if you want to spark behaviour change, forget shame and berating people - the secret is to invite them to join a fun activity. So don't stress, this is far from a dismal discussion about the waste crisis. Rather, it's a joyful, encouraging story about how to change the world with positivity, recorded on location in Delhi, with a soundtrack of beautiful birdsong. Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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The Future of Fashion Artefacts, According to Leo Carlton (Hint! It's Printed) 47:02

16 weeks тому47:02

47:02

London fashion week spotlight: In a markedly hatless era, forward-marching British New Gen accessories designer Leo Carlton is turning their talents to digitally-printed crowns, elf ears, breast plates and mysterious sculptural masks. Some of these genre-defying fashion artefacts feel a bit witchy, with pagan undertones. Others, firmly futuristic. But how do they make them? Wouldn’t you like to know! Leo trained at Cordwainers, enjoyed a two-year residency at Alexander McQueen's Sarabande Foundation, and studied classical millinery techniques - their first job out of college was with the iconic London hatmaker Stephen Jones, and they used to make showpieces for Dilara Findikoglu, Richard Quinn and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. But these new VR adventures step beyond the confines of the physical word with mind-bending results. From teaching themselves digital printing via Youtube to sculpting in virtual reality, the only limits are: there are no limits. Tell us what you think? Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. THANK YOU Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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New Gen: Essie Kramer talks Upycling Church Cast-Offs, Mastering the Digital Printer and Nearly Dressing Julia Fox 40:16

18 weeks тому40:16

40:16

Experience matters. Everyone always tells new design graduates that it's best to work for someone else while you find your feet. But at what point do you know that you are ready to strike out on your own? While on the surface this conversation with emerging German fashion designer Essie Kramer seems to be about the joys of sourcing old ecclesiastical textiles and turning them into provocative new ensembles, or how digital printing is democratising object-making, I think it's really about confidence and finding your flow. When you know, you know! Essie is one to watch. I'm always excited to meet next gen fashion talent . Featuring young designers has been a pillar of Wardrobe Crisis from the start. I've been lucky enough to be a judge on many new gen competitions over the years, including Redress in Hong Kong, the Circular Design Challenge in India and Australia's National Designer Award. I got to write a bit for Sara Maino's Vogue Italia Talents project, and covered the BFC's New Gen for years. Every series, we've run at least one (sometimes more) Episodes focused on new designers around the world. Got recommendations? Hit us up! And please share these podcasts. Then re-listen to these treasures from our archives: Ep 61 Vogue Talents , featuring HUEMN and Sindiso Khumalo Ep 65 with Ruchika from Bodice Studio Ep 70 featuring Bethany Williams , Matthew Needham and Patrick McDowell Ep 110 with upcyclers Helen Kirkum and Duran Lantink Ep 139 with Icelandic knitter Ýr Jóhannsdóttir Ep 146 with Joao Maraschin Ep 204 Michaela Stark Happy listening! Clare x Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.…

WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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Clare's Take: Dressing Melania - Decoding the Meaning of Big Fashion's Right Wing Power Play 37:42

19 weeks тому37:42