Conversations About Surfing
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353 – The Grit! January 2, 2025
1:35:44
1:35:44
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1:35:44? In today’s show David and Chas pick up the pieces from NYE and embark on the New Year with intel about Tom Curren’s hair dye, a new crown and title at Pipeline, a major shift from CT Champs that devalues legacy surf brands and spikes value in one surfer-owned brand, Jack Robinson offers you … Continue reading "353 – The Grit! January 2, 2025" The…
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580 - Jeff Divine
1:46:18
1:46:18
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1:46:18Surf photographer and photo editor Jeff Divine’s imagery has largely framed our perspective on North Shore surfing from the 70s and 80s. Today he shares stories from the era defining Expression Session in 1971, reveals that he didn’t befriend Gerry Lopez until a decade after they had helped build one another’s careers, he discusses how the inceptio…
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439 – Spit! December 31, 2025
1:15:43
1:15:43
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1:15:43In today’s show Scott and David pay homage to the pervasive Hoffman family legacy in California surfing, breakdown the massive sponsor disruptions in the top tier of men’s surfing and what it reveals about surf industry economics, discuss the savvy and bias agenda to select a “Best Of The Year”, and bid a final farewell … Continue reading "439 – Sp…
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352 – The Grit! December 26, 2025
1:33:24
1:33:24
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1:33:24In today’s show David and Chas recap the glory of Christmas and ponder the possibility of The Lost Week, count the number of times they’ve executed what they intended to do while surfing, survey two recent surfing Blood Feuds, perplex over Curren’s hair color, Julian’s shift to LGBTQ-friendly leisurewear, and map a winning plan for … Continue readi…
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580 – Jeff Divine
1:42:18
1:42:18
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1:42:18Surf photographer and photo editor Jeff Divine’s imagery has largely framed our perspective on North Shore surfing from the 70s and 80s. Today he shares stories from the era defining Expression Session in 1971, reveals that he didn’t befriend Gerry Lopez until a decade after they had helped build one another’s careers, he discusses how … Continue r…
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438 – Spit! December 24, 2025
1:09:21
1:09:21
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1:09:21In today’s show Scott and David attempt to identify which surfer had the most impact in 2025, note new potential surfing world records, analyze the pattern of symbiotic worldwide surfboard design evolution, dive deep into Reno Abellira’s largely under appreciated contributions, and celebrate this season’s unofficial Triple Crown winners. Plus Dukes…
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In today’s episode Scott and David reveal how Stab’s EAST was an adaption “The Karate Kid” and dive deep into bottom chines, spiral vees, funky fins, stringerless EPS, and seek to understand how Mason uses so many words to say so little and Nathan Fletcher says so much by using so few. Plus Dukes and … Continue reading "437 – Spit! December 19, 202…
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In today’s show David and Chas discover why bodyboarding reigns supreme over surfing, learn the virtues of not getting paid, pro surfing gets litigious, JJF brands Pipeline and lobbies to become Mister, a pro surf Catfish stands trial for wanton domestic abuse, and learn why your mail carrier deserves a parting gift. Plus Barrel or … Continue readi…
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579 – Max Stewart: Eye Symmetry Surfboards
1:41:34
1:41:34
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1:41:34In today’s show board builder Max Stewart of Eye Symmetry explains the inverse relationship between product quality and business growth, tales from early days at Hayden Shapes, how Tom Carroll has informed how he takes custom orders and why he factors your personality into the order card. Enjoy! Sponsor: Quince.com/surf Sponsor: Rula.com/surf Prese…
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579 - Max Stewart: Eye Symmetry Surfboards
1:45:34
1:45:34
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1:45:34In today’s show board builder Max Stewart explains the inverse relationship between product quality and business growth, tales from early days at Hayden Shapes, how Tom Carroll has informed how he takes custom orders and why he factors your personality into the order card. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices…
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436 – Spit! December 15, 2025
1:11:38
1:11:38
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1:11:38In today’s episode Scott and David tally how the “industry” influenced magazine’s editorial and the photos that were published, pick sides in each of the beefs displayed in “The Style Economy”, play The Pause Game, check in with the Wave of The Winter, recap the Nazare Challenge, and finally acknowledge the incredible work of Chumbo. … Continue rea…
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350 – The Grit! December 12, 2025
1:16:54
1:16:54
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1:16:54In today’s show dingleberries Chas and David learn about Kelly’s suspicious (alleged) scrubbing of the Internet, Bethany’s threat from the WSL, Sterling gets Curren to finally run his mouth, the boys learn how surf music becomes iconic, why Chinese wax jobs are here to stay, and which vehicle value is too great to bring to … Continue reading "350 –…
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578 – Matt Warshaw
1:39:37
1:39:37
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1:39:37In today’s episode the Encyclopedia of Surfing’s Matt Warshaw discusses the risks of having surf history chronicled by a single man, who’s gotten short shrift on the EOS, how much and how little has changed in surf culture since the first magazine, an examination of pioneering female surf photographers, the first surfer to go at … Continue reading …
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578 - Matt Warshaw
1:45:00
1:45:00
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1:45:00In today’s episode the Encyclopedia of Surfing’s Matt Warshaw discusses the risks of having surf history chronicled by a single man, who’s gotten short shrift on the EOS, how much and how little has changed in surf culture since the first magazine, an examination of pioneering female surf photographers, the first surfer to go at Backdoor, and why h…
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349 – The Grit! December 5, 2025
1:28:27
1:28:27
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1:28:27In today’s show David and Chas review the newly released Surfline footage that potentially captured UFO activity, predict the implications and wonder if Harry Bryant tapped into the resource, they learn how Dale Webster soothed a weary cord lord’s Great White trauma, provide the ultimate holiday gifting guide, learn the beneficial chemical reaction…
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435 – Spit! December 5, 2025
1:08:56
1:08:56
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1:08:56In today’s episode Scott and David learn why a swing might be the perfect gateway toy to learn to surf, Tanner Gudang keeps a thread of energy alive five decades on, Hugh Jackman violates an ancient surfing code and the WSL applauds him, MFeb narrows it down to the final four, and a 58 year … Continue reading "435 – Spit! December 5, 2025" The post…
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577 - Jordan Rodin
1:05:31
1:05:31
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1:05:31In today’s episode Jordan Rodin joins us to chat about life lessons and hazing gleaned from Derek Hynd, make a case for heavier surfboards, explain his 5 year hiatus from getting barreled, why you should be stripping down used boards and reshaping them, what famous sculptors of centuries past can teach us about surfing, why sometimes the smallest m…
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577 – Jordan Rodin
1:01:31
1:01:31
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1:01:31In today’s episode Jordan Rodin joins us to chat about life lessons and hazing gleaned from Derek Hynd, make a case for heavier surfboards, explain his 5 year hiatus from getting barreled, why you should be stripping down used boards and reshaping them, what famous sculptors of centuries past can teach us about surfing, why … Continue reading "577 …
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348 – The Grit! November 29, 2025
1:11:10
1:11:10
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1:11:10In today’s show David and Chas innumerate a Gratitude List and explain why the modern era is the best time to be a surfer, welcome Benedict Cumberbatch into the brotherhood, honor Mom John as the greatest mother of all time, wonder where they’d be without surfing’s quiet gift of discipline, realize that cold plunges are … Continue reading "348 – Th…
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576 – John Philbin
1:06:35
1:06:35
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1:06:35In today’s show actor John Philbin recounts his life as an escape artist, shares dangers of achieving one’s life goals, the false paradigm of self-confidence, why he is not a good actor, how to reform a bitter and angry disposition, and why he doesn’t trust anyone who isn’t a hypocrite. Enjoy! Presented by: Surfrider.org Presented by: REALWaterspor…
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576 - John Philbin
1:13:36
1:13:36
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1:13:36In today’s show actor John Philbin recounts his life as an escape artist, shares dangers of achieving one’s life goals, the false paradigm of self-confidence, why he is not a good actor, how to reform a bitter and angry disposition, and why he doesn’t trust anyone who isn’t a hypocrite. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/ad…
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434 – Spit! November 25, 2025
1:04:40
1:04:40
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1:04:40In today’s show Scott and David analyze the new CT rules for 2026 and assess how they affect return champs, they marvel at the vast spectacle of Sunset beach, fret for the newly unlocked fear of outriggers in the line-up, warn to steer clear of lounging wildlife, and review the latest installment of EAST with … Continue reading "434 – Spit! Novembe…
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347 – The Grit November 21, 2025
1:18:10
1:18:10
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1:18:10In today’s show Chas and David offer suitable insults for children, advise on how to keep a second marriage thriving while avoiding a third, wonder if the WSL lost it’s internet connection in Hawaii, learn when it’s appropriate to ask another surfer on a date, and determine the precise moment you should quit surfing. Plus … Continue reading "347 – …
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