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Do you want to experience more happiness, love, ease and magic in your everyday? Explore how body, mind, heart and soul all work together to help you be the person you want to be. Join Alana and expert guests as you learn to love yourself more, spend more time feeling joy and happiness, navigate life’s challenges with more grace and have compassion for everyone around you. Whether you’re taking baby steps or giant leaps, a life that feels truly magical is within reach!
 
Welcome to Moms That Say F*ck hosted by Dr. Dina Kulik and Alana Kayfetz, a no bullsh*t approach to parenting and momboss-ing. Alana Kayfetz is the CEO and founder of MomsTO, and is on a mission to bring moms together and give them a great day, revolutionizing maternity leave. Dr. Dina Kulik is a pediatrician, pediatric emergency medicine doctor and the founder of Kidcrew. Dina provides no-nonsense child health advice. Alana and Dina are eager to talk to other moms, entrepreneurs and interes ...
 
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This Everest season is like a runny nose that won't stop. You blow hard, wipe it clean, and all of a sudden, there it goes again. Just as I thought base camp was empty, as well as the other 8000ers, people keep showing up at the South Col and summiting. I guess with winds so calm (relatively - there are still those moments) that leaders are demonst…
 
While we watch summit after summit on Everest 2022, I reached out to my long-time friend, mentor, and climbing partner, Jim Davidson, to take a trip down memory lane and talk about our Everest experiences. We talk training, preparation, and being on Everest during the tragic 2015 earthquake, and of course, my summit in 2011 and Jim's in 2017. It's …
 
This is a special Podcast and YouTube interview with Tim Bogdanov, 37, who was rescued from Annapurna last month. He tells a chilling tale of getting lost and multiple mistakes he made during his no Os climb. Tim has summits of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri plus over 30 6,000-meters peaks around the world. His style is to climb alone and without supplemen…
 
It was a busy week in the Himalayas with summits on multiple 8000ers, including Everest. On the Nepal side of the mountain, Kami Rita Sherpa led the rope team to the summit and at the same time extended his summit record to 26. Sadly, there were two more deaths of the season, one on Kangchenchunga and another on Everest. Still, thus far 2022 is a l…
 
With both sides of Everest seeing significant activity, let's pause and talk to three world-class weather experts about the current situation and what they see in store for May. Also, I ask them to predict the first day for a member to summit Everest. The historical weather pattern on Everest has been a calm April, a rough beginning of May before c…
 
It's May Day on Everest and some teams are having a party, while others are focused on their acclimatization schedule, and some now eying the summit. But everyone needs to wait for the fixed ropes. The upper mountain may have some moderate winds that may delay the rope team. We saw summits on a few 8000ers but the conditions remain iffy. Still, thu…
 
As we enter the last week of April, the climbing on Everest is in the full program. Climbers are all over the lower mountain from EBC to Camps 1 and 2. Sherpas are incredibly busy stocking camps. Meanwhile, on the other 8000ers, progress was stalled by weather, but still climbing underway on some others. All in all, it's a low-drama year thus far. …
 
Everest used to take a minimum of two months home to home. In 2019 Roxxane Vogel did it in two weeks. So what's changed and what's a reasonable time today? You can see the blog post with more details at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/19/everest-2022-how-fast-can-you-climb-everest/ Climb On Alan Memories are Everything…
 
Activity is strong at Everest Base Camp, with more still on the trek. The permits increased as expected this past week and will top out fairly soon. They still lag behind last year by over 100 for Everest. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, ready for more teams to arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er deaths of the 202…
 
Activity is picking up with climbers getting closer to Everest Base Camp, plus many more have arrived in Kathmandu. The permits have increased as expected this past week but lag behind last year. Teams will arrive at EBC this upcoming week. We saw the first 8000er summits of the 2022 Spring season this past week. The Khumbu has changed dramatically…
 
Jenn Drummond doesn't let much stop her from achieving her goals. Having all of her climbing gear not show up for a climb was a mere inconvenience for this 41-year-old mother of seven children. Jenn is on a mission to be the first female climber to summit the so-called Second Seven Summits. We are all familiar with the first seven, and around 500 p…
 
I caught up with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Nepal's Namache Bazaar while on his way to Everest Base Camp. He describes #Everest2022 as looking more like a normal season. He has 12 members with three guides plus two private parties of a guide with their client. We also talk about climbing the so-called Second Seven Summi…
 
Teams continue to arrive in Kathmandu from afar. Many are proudly posting pictures of receiving their Everest climbing permits, but as of today, the pace is way off what we saw only a few years ago or even last year. In this post, I talk about the first time I thought about climbing Everest, back in 2002. Big Picture By early April 2021 Nepal had i…
 
Now that we are in April, the trekking and climbing season will get serious. Many teams have already arrived and are trekking. Several teams are acclimatizing on their 8000-meter peaks while the Icefall Doctors are constructing the route through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2. Soon it will be time to climb! \ In this podcast, I discuss teams arriving…
 
Welcome to Alan Arnette's first Everest 2022 Podcast. I introduce the season with an overview of how many people might be climbing this year, the impact of COVID and the Russian invasion of Ukraine on the number of foreign climbers, and more. I hope you enjoy it. #everest2022 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything…
 
Every person who climbs Everest is unique. So, of course, that person feels special, but some stand out. Take Kuntal Joisher, for example. He has summited Everest from the Tibet and Nepal sides, plus Lhotse, and completed many other amazing adventures like the Northern Icecap in Chile. But what makes Kuntal stand out is his dedication to a vegan li…
 
With the Everest 2022 season just around the corner, it appears the Tibet side will be closed and continued uncertainty about the wisdom of climbing on the Nepal side. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alp…
 
2022 will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 14 times providing coverage, another four seasons of actually climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2021 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series …
 
I caught up with British climber, Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry to discuss her amazing 2021 where she climbed on six 8000-meter mountains. This British mother of five children ages 12 to 18, had limited high altitude experience before with summits of Island Peak and Ama Dablam, but deep inside she wanted to try the hard ones. Along with British Professiona…
 
I caught up with British climbing Guide, Jon Gupta of Mountain Expeditions to discuss his amazing 2021 where he guided mostly one client, fellow Brit Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry on six 8000-meter mountains. He also climbed a 7000er with a friend and is now on Ama Dablam. Overall he climbed (time the discussion starts in the video) Everest (Summit) at 19:…
 
It was an honor to do this video interview with three of the nine members, seven male, and two female, of the Full Circle Everest team. They hope to make history as the first Black climbing team to attempt to summit Everest. As of late 2021, there have been 10,184 summits but only eight Black climbers have stood on the top. According to the Himalay…
 
I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France to discuss his upcoming winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. This exact style and the route had never been attempted or accomplished. In 2019, Jost tagged his high point at 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. He said before starting the expedition, he would be p…
 
In this episode I close out the summer climbing season in Pakistan's Karakorum area. Also I discuss what we can expect in the world of mountaineering over the next several months. The summer Karakorum season is over, well, I think so. There are always a few surprises. The 48 summits on K2 were close but not a record. 2018 saw a record with 62 total…
 
Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering has now summited K2 three times. Only one other person has more. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. He was the leader for the 21 person team who submitted on July 28, 2018, at approximatel…
 
In this Podcast I cover the recent events in Pakistan's Northern Territories on K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I & II. Heavy snowfall and high winds have delayed progress on K2 but there have been summits on Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak along with the death of Mr. Kim Hong-Bin, 57. The bodies of winter K2 climbers Pakistani Ali Sadpara, Icelander Jo…
 
Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering is one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He's hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia,…
 
The 2021 summer climbing season in Pakistan's Kararum Range is heating up as we approach mid-way through the season. Teams are making great progress with Camps set as high as 7,000-meters, C3 on K2 and Broad Peak. Also, we already have summits on Gasherbrum II by a French team who skied down. Then there was a guide who paraglided off Broad Peak aro…
 
The summer season has begun in Pakistan's Karakoram range with climbers on K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I/II, and Nanga Parbat. The ropes have already reached C1 on K2 and climbers have slept at C1 on both Broad and GI. Due to some mixed signals from Pakistan authorities, many operators canceled their climbs this summer making for a relatively low nu…
 
Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Maddison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer Yoichiro Miura is the oldest person to summit i…
 
This summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge. Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen. While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June 17. Aft…
 
As I sat down to write a recap of the 2021 spring season on Everest, these words came to mind: COVID, coverup, lies, misdirection, personal attacks, denials. Oh, and cyclones, wind, waiting, risk, and yes, summits. But, oh my, at what a cost? If 2019 was the year Everest broke, 2021 was the year Nepal broke Everest. With 2020 lost to the global pan…
 
I'll talk about the last few days of this Everest 2021 season. A reported 16 people (6 members with 10 Sherpas) took a gamble and summited on Monday, May 31 at 7:00 am. They evaluated the risky avalanche conditions after feet on fresh snow and used their powerful Sherpa resources to break the trail for their clients to the top. Well done by all and…
 
Heavy snow was reported on Everest, but some teams are reporting low winds. Once again, the truth is opaque on Everest. The gag order by the Nepal government has had a dramatic impact on teams’ willingness to share any information that could be construed as negative, thus all the happy talk. A handful of teams are still eyeing the end of the month …
 
We saw summit wave 3 today, Sunday, May 23 2021 on #Everest2021. Estimates range from 150 to 170 summits, including Sherpas. This takes the season total to around 300 total summits, way off from the 2019 record 660 just on the Nepal side. High winds delayed departure from the South Col by several hours. Another 100 or so climbers are staged ready t…
 
Teams are making serious summit plans with a few already staged at the South Col albeit in windy conditions. In fact, it’s too windy to go for the summit so they will hold in place Saturday, May 22 hoping to leave late Saturday night for a Sunday, May 23rd summit. It’s all about risk management at this moment.…
 
The remanence of Cyclone Tauktae is playing cat and mouse with the aggressive teams. Madison Mountaineering hoped to get a jump on everyone and went to C3 only to find high winds. Four Sherpas from IMG made it to the South Col and also reported high winds. So the summit plans are off by a day with Madison now targeting May 22. Big Picture Teams are…
 
Lukas Furtenbach, of Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures, made global headlines after he canceled his spring 2021 Everest expedition on the Nepal side last Friday. This follows the Chinese decision to cancel their only team on the Tibet side. Meanwhile, the officials responsible for the safety of guests climbing in Nepal deny climbers have COVID a…
 
The good news is the jet stream is easing off Everest as it moves north, the bad news is a cyclone skirting the west coast of India is expected to turn right running perpendicular to the Himalayas bringing strong weather along with it. It could "flood the mountain" according to meteorologist Chris Tomer and Everest Weather's Michael Fagin. Chris ha…
 
It was a big week of news on Everest this past week from clients summiting to a major operator canceling their expedition. This next week looks to be even bigger with 300 people trying to summit beginning May 19. I estimate 172 summits last week on May 11, 12, and 13. The jet stream was south of Everest thus the conditions were about as good as it …
 
The #Everest2021 scene is quiet now with the jet stream on top of the summit. On the Tibet side, China canceled the only expedition there. I’m getting a few reports of high winds at C3 from the last rotation, and it’s worse now. That said, look for teams to begin their summit bids aiming for May 19-23. If for next week they will leave EBC on Monday…
 
With Everest 2021 well underway, we are seeing the first commercial clients summit after the ropes reached the summit by the Sherpa team on Friday, May 7, 2021. Now over 150 people have summited just as the weather turns bad. it looks like only a few more summits until after May 20. There are a bout 350 more people left to attempt the summit, inclu…
 
The rope fixing team made the summit on Friday, May 7, 2021, opening the route to the over 300 climbers left at base camp. The weather remains good, for Everest, so look for many teams to jump on this window. Meanwhile, it appears that the virus spread has stalled for the moment with no new cases reported at EBC for over a week. It’s unknown if thi…
 
The season continues on schedule and as normal as possible in this difficult year. Reports of helicopter evacuations have slowed to a trickle either because they are not happening or no one is talking. We know for sure the government is mum. Let's assume there are no new cases and hope for the best. Slowly a few teams are revealing that they brough…
 
Now that we are solidly into May, about mid-season for spring Everest, let's pause for a moment and take inventory of the situation. At the risk of giving readers whiplash, the bottom line for me is that things are looking better ... considering. Without a doubt, this may be the most challenging season in the history of Everest, perhaps topped only…
 
I caught up with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp. He describes #Everest2021 thus far as they prepare for a 2:00 am departure back to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. This will be their last rotation before the summit push in a couple of weeks. I asked him how his team, Madison Mountaineering, was doing wit…
 
Kenton Cool is one of the premier climbers from the United Kingdom. Among his many accomplishments, he skied the 8000er Cho Oyu, made the first, and thus far only, climb of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse in seven days in 2013. And he has summited Everest 14 times. He's currently on Everest with a client attempting his 15th which would tie American Dav…
 
It's clear that there is or has been COVID at Everest Base Camp. Well, at least it clear that people who had it there were taken to Kathmandu where they tested positive and are receiving treatment. It's also clear that Nepal is seeing a huge spike in new cases and has gone under lockdown once again. Finally, it's clear that India has become a super…
 
Ed Viesturs has joined David Scheffer's Himali gear company. I interview the pair about how they met, Ed's contribution to an updated product line, and Ed's project with Inspiration4 - the first civilian space flight in history. University of Colorado graduate, David Schaeffer started the outdoor gear company, Himali, in 2014 along with Tendi Sherp…
 
Climbers in the Western Cwm are extending their stays to avoid EBC with the current spat of COVID evacuations. Good weather is allowing climbers to tag Camp 3 at almost 7,000-meters. The rope fixing teams reached the South Col. I expect the summit in a few days.
 
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